Charles Spense, the author of the book Gastrophysics once said, the pleasures of the table reside in the mind, not in the mouth. So as you eat today, are you stressed and closed to the world, or is your heart open to new possibilities?
The designers of Shima Nakama (lsland of Friends) have this in mind, and between the strumming of the Sanshin, to the marketplace feel of the seafood market stalls, have done everything to open your mind for an exploration into the Okinawan way of life.
Tradition and Progress
We may be listening to Okinawan folk ballads in this restaurant whose décor plays tribute to traditional Ryukyu villages from hundreds of years ago but these days, the young middle class is drinking beer and not awamori, despite it being sourced far away from the mainland, just like younger Russians drinking Carlsberg instead of Vodka. Even Orion does not get a look in, though the local brewery is not losing without a fight. Since its partnership with Asahi, it has lured the next generation back with offers of Okinawan lime and pineapple craft beer.
On the other hand, the Agu Pork retains its timeless charm, its heritage forever linked to the Fourteenth century, when envoys from the Ming Dynasty across the sea had a vociferous appetite for pork. They would stay in Naha’s original Chinatown, waiting for the prevailing winds to turn to take them home. It is said that the southern breeze brings forth good hope for sailors coming back from Asian lands like Siam. At that time, it used to take 22 pigs to keep these envoys fed, hence creating an industry of pork rearing on the island.
Today, the Agu pork cooked in stock Shabushabu style and drizzled with in your choice of either ponzu or Sesame salad dressing is such simple but comforting Okinawa fare. Here they have elevated it to the next level, by sourcing pigs that are raised on a diet of Bunashimeji Mushrooms, which has a buttery and nutty flavour and rich with nutrients, making it soft and juicy and less smelly than other kinds of pork. Likewise the peanut tofu is just the right texture, creamy, firm like a good cream cheese.
Beef lovers on the other hand, should try the Ishigaki Beef, while their bonito soup is highly rated.
Communal Dining – never out of style
It is no coincidence that the Agu Pork is sourced from Kunigami, near the longevity village of Ogimi. One of the secrets to long life, is lifelong friendships. In Ogimi, they take it to the next level, by buddying up children in the same age group for life, called Moai, which means a meeting for a common purpose. Today, I am meeting old friends and making new friends, to celebrate our past and to build our hopes for a better future for Okinawa.
While the food is delicious and nutritious, it is not so good to stop conversation, but good enough to engender conversation, reminding me of that Nescafe advertisement about the power of coffee to bring people together.
Okinawan food is all about sharing, as even I will struggle with eating all the sea grapes by myself. Of course, there are singles and couples dining here as well, and the counter seats offer them a good view of the live music, as well as the market stall displays of fresh Okinawan greens, like a miniature Okinawa village marketplace.
The tatami rooms have plenty of space for social distancing but if your legs start swelling or become numb sitting cross legged on the tatami mat, then the Horigotatsu seating allow you to take off your shoes and put your feet on the sunken floor space under the tables.
If on the other hand you are with young children, the private tatami rooms provide plenty of soft space for kids to doodle, or dare I say, take a nap after a long day, forming bonds for the next generation of Moai.
